Social feeds are already awash with vignettes of Greek summers: rugged coastlines; freshly cooked phyllo and feta parcels; swims in warm, azure waters. Though this year it’s not just the islands we’re yearning after — Athens is having its time in the sun, no longer seen as just a stopgap on the way to the port.
Not a month seems to go by without a chic design hotel, cool concept restaurant, trendy wine bar or pop-up gallery throwing open its doors in the city. It’s thanks to an influx of cool young creatives who have breathed new life into Athens’ walls after it struggled in the wake of the financial crash of the late 2000s. Add to this the monuments that have been drawing crowds for millennia, and there’s no wonder it’s the mini break on so many Londoners’ lips right now.
The ancient citadel, the Acropolis, is where every first-timer should start their odyssey. Mornings are a great time to swerve the heat and the crowds busy papping the Parthenon temple.
For an even more impressive vantage over the city, climb or take the funicular up Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in Athens.
Afterwards reward yourself with great coffee and perfect pastries at nearby Kora (korabakery.com) in Kolonaki, or lunch at Dexameni. It’s a decades-old institution where tables teeter on sidewalks either side of a square, making it an ideal spot to get a feel for the city. Fuel up on tasty and cheap mezze dishes such as cherry sauce-topped halloumi, fava bean dip and kofte.
Come evening, book into one of the hottest tables of the moment, which are giving a nod to traditional taverna-style dishes, cooking on open fires. Bear in mind that locals dine late — an 11pm table isn’t out of the ordinary. In the centre of town there’s Manári Taverna (manaritaverna.com), where delectable meat plates are served with salsa verde, charred veggies and potato pavé.
Pharaoh (pharaoh.gr), which opened in 2022 in Exarcheia, remains a favourite for a reason. It’s a great late-night spot where records spin, and dishes such as braised beef with barley are paired with a fantastic selection of natural wines.
For something more upscale there’s Michelin-star Makris (makrisathens.com), which is housed in a historic building just a stone’s throw from the Acropolis. Chef Peter Dimas puts on an impressive culinary display for guests with dishes served with creative flair to rival Blumenthal’s. The tasting menu is a whistle-stop tour through exceptional local produce, from scallops to organic Hellenic pork Iberico.
Alternatively head to the top floor of The Dolli hotel in Plaka (thedolli.com) where the restuarant’s outdoor tables overlook the Parthenon, and dishes are refined and served with exceptional wines. Rather than traditional Greek, think sushi, steak and Champagne.
Indeed, Athens is fast emerging as one of Europe’s most exciting wine capitals. A growing number of buzzing bars specialise in funky Greek grapes, rare French varieties or small-batch producers. Try starting at downtown Wine is Fine (wineisfine.gr), a bistro-style bar with a frequently changing menu (pick a colour and let the staff choose you a glass to sample). Then head to Kennedy Vins, a tiny, stripped-back gem nearby. Lively Heteroclito (heteroclito.gr) is a lovely pre-dinner spot where you can sit bar-side with a local glass served with plenty of olives on the side.
If you prefer to while away a few hours shopping, head to bookstore Hyper Hypo (hyperhypo.gr) to browse its vivid collection of modern art tomes. At nearby Anana (anana.coffee) pick up a coffee as you browse more zines and photography books in a beautiful historical building.
Fashion and myth lovers alike should swing by Hermina Athens (herminaathens.com) a few streets away, to browse beautiful charms and statement pieces inspired by Greek legend. The label is one of the city’s coolest homegrown jewellery brands.
Can’t stand the heat? This season the city’s “riviera” of Glyfada will come into its own. It is set for a resurgence to rival its 1980s heyday after undergoing major regeneration. Luxury five-star hotels from the likes of One&Only and Domes flew up last year with suites on prime stretches of the coastline.
Day trippers in the know spend languid afternoons stretched out at a Vouliagmeni Lake beach club (lakevouliagmeni.gr) dipping into its thermal water. And come sundown, the Temple of Poseidon is a real sight as you overlook the Aegean.
Where to stay
One of the brilliant thing about Athens is its varied hotel scene. You can find cool digs for around the £100 mark in a trendy neighbourhood in a historic building, or you can blow the budget and book a room with an infinity rooftop pool in the heart of the city.
If visiting in summer, consider basing yourself on the coast and dipping into the city in the evenings. In shoulder season you’ll be delighted by the unseasonal warmth of the city. It may be worth choosing two hotels in different neighbourhoods and spending a couple of nights at each to explore more of the city on foot.
The Dolli
Slap-bang in the middle of Plaka, this former department store turned slick hotel possesses the city’s biggest money shot: an infinity rooftop pool overlooking the Acropolis.
Inside, it’s all curved lines, sleek marble and bronze accents, and ornate original details such as cornicing and coving which were uncovered during the 2023 restoration. A soft, tonal palette allows its incredible collection of Greek artefacts and modern art to shine — there’s a Matisse in the tea room.
Rooms are cosy crash pads with all the mod-cons, and the most covetable come with floor-to-ceiling views of the city from the bath tub.
Don’t leave without tasting some of the pick ‘n’ mix all-day afternoon tea offering from the lobby. Or for something unique, request an appointment with the hotel’s talented spa therapist partner Nikolaos Unalome. He offers holistic sound healing and meditative massage treatments from the comfort of the hotel’s rooms. You’ll leave with a clear mind, feeling as though you’re walking on air.
Rooms from £718. Book it here
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