Tabi shoes, with their split-toe design, are turning heads all over the fashion world. They’re a little strange, a little stylish, and completely unforgettable. But behind their bold look is a rich history that goes back to 15th-century Japan. Originally, tabis were socks worn with traditional sandals. The split between the big toe and the others helped with balance and comfort. In the 1920s, a rubber sole was added to create the jika-tabi, a durable work shoe still worn in Japan today.
The transformation of tabi from functional wear to high fashion is largely credited to Belgian designer Martin Margiela. He brought the tabi to the runway in his very first show in 1988. Inspired by the original Japanese, his version had a hoof-like shape that shocked audiences and instantly set a new tone in fashion. It was edgy, unexpected, and quickly became a cult classic.
Today, the tabi is seen as the ultimate if-you-know-you-know item. Loved by those who understand its history and boldness, and often misunderstood by those who don’t.
“I believe the rise has happened with the recent virality of a show by Maison Margiela, the house known to have created the Tabi shoes,” says designer Jeetinder Sandhu. “The comfort and style these shoes provide is unlike anything else.” With collaborations from Reebok, Christian Louboutin and Gentle Monster, the tabi has been reimagined in sneakers, boots and heels.
Even Indian brands are making their own versions, with labels like Shop Mistry and Kilchu putting their own spin on the silhouette.
“I wouldn’t say the tabis aren’t a niche style of shoe and that they would appeal to everyone. The style is hyped among the fashion-forward segment who have an exposure of international fashion trends,” says Avenika Mohan from Mistry.
Meanwhile, celebs are also getting behind the look. Rapper Doechii made headlines when she wore Oxford-style tabi heels to the 2025 GLAAD Media Awards, proving the style can be just as glamorous as it is daring. Other celebrities who have embraced the look include Rose from BLACKPINK, Zendaya, and Kylie Jenner.