“They always come back to Norfolk,” was a saying that I scoffed at growing up in the rural village of Brooke, just south of Norwich. As a teenager, I spent an inordinate amount of time plotting my escape to the bright lights of a big city. But now I live in London, I yearn for Norfolk’s verdant fields, thatched pubs and winding waterways.
The county has often been overlooked as a holiday destination in favour of big hitters such as the Cotswolds and the Peak District. But a correction happened in the pandemic when tourists had exhausted all the usual suspects. The North Norfolk coast, in particular, drew well-heeled Londoners in their droves, so much so that the stretch from Brancaster to Cley next the Sea became known as Chelsea-on-Sea. Meanwhile, smaller inland villages such as Great Massingham were suddenly splashed across glossy supplements.
While I’m all for Norfolk’s growing renaissance, there’s so much more to the county than its current moment in the spotlight – from gastronomic hideaways to picture-postcard villages. Even I, having lived in Norfolk for years and visited countless times since, discovered new corners on my most recent tour.
Shotesham, just a 20-minute drive south of Norwich, dispels the notion that the county is flat. It’s all rolling green hills, thatched cottages and wildflower meadows that burst with sunflowers in the warmer months. There isn’t much to do here, and that’s the point. I spent my morning ambling around the unspoilt countryside and admiring the imposing medieval church, All Saints. On my travels, I stumbled across Shotesham Park, a family-run estate straight out of Bridgerton.
For now, it’s only available for weddings and private events but there are plans to open a B&B soon. They have even started exploring the wellness scene by offering retreats. I don’t think it will be long before Shotesham becomes influencer gold, so get there before they do.
Just down the road is the unassuming village of Stoke Holy Cross. It barely covers 3.6 square miles, but this little place packs a serious culinary punch. Unusually for such a small and relatively unknown place (where you’d normally count yourself lucky if the pub serves food), it has not one but two remarkable restaurants: Stoke Mill and The Wildebeest.
The latter is one of my favourites for refined pub fare, and its set menu is excellent value. Further along the uncharted food trail is Caistor St Edmund, home to the Roman town of Venta Icenorum, and to Mark Poynton at Caistor Hall, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in the county.
From Shotesham, I drove north to Trowse, a hamlet that boasts charming countryside and a generous village green. The heart of the community, it has played host to various arty events and festivals over the years. I once saw a pre-fame Ed Sheeran perform there.
Trowse is also a brilliant base for more active travellers. While many visitors flock to the better-known Broads, Whitlingham, a 15-minute walk from the village, remains surprisingly under-the-radar. The circular walk around Whitlingham Country Park takes less than an hour to complete, taking dog walkers and family into its lush woodland.
If you fancy something faster paced, hit the dry ski slopes at Norfolk Snowsports Club. Even if you don’t ski – like myself – you’ll get a sufficient shot of adrenaline by tubing instead. Afterwards, I headed for a well-earned pint in the arches at Redwell Brewery, where beers, all vegan and gluten-free, are brewed on site. On a warm day, nothing beats sipping a pint outside, inhaling lungfuls of crisp air in between sips.
Of all the places I revisited, Heydon might just be the most picturesque. With its Georgian houses and old fashioned village shop, it felt like stepping into a period drama. It’s unsurprising: the village has been used as a filming location for Monty Python sketches and the film adaption of The Go-Between .
Heydon is the kind of place that rewards lingering. Start with the locally famous Village Tea Room before wandering into Folks Coffee Co, a more modern affair, where flat whites are poured with precision and almond croissants disappear quickly. From there, drift around the small smattering of artisan shops, ranging from fashion to homeware, in converted agricultural buildings.
The final stop on my journey was Binham, a tiny village near the North Norfolk coast. The 11th-century Binham Priory dominates the area, a striking reminder of Norfolk’s ancient past and well worth a visit. What really catches my attention, though, is something rather more contemporary: a cheese vending machine.
Tucked away in The Parlour, a cafe on a working dairy farm next to the priory, it dispenses wedges of locally-produced cheese. I am not usually a fan, but even I was won over by the creamy acidity of the acclaimed Binham Blue, which is made in nearby village of Wighton. Like all cheese courses, it was the perfect final note before my reluctant return to London.
As I chatted to the friendly waiter at The Parlour over a slice of courgette cake, I was asked where I live. For once, I hesitated.
“I live in London but I’m from Norfolk,” I replied.
“We’ll probably see you back one day, then,” they said with a knowing smile. This time, they might be right.
How to do it
Greater Anglia has direct trains to Norwich from London Liverpool Street and Stratford. The journey takes around 90 minutes and prices start from £12 one way. Cars can be hired from £45 per day from Norwich Car Hire. Villages Shotesham and Stoke Holy Cross can be reached from Norwich by Konectbus number 84. An adult day ticket costs £6.
Where to stay
Nestled in the heart of Norwich’s historic centre, 38 St Giles offers eight individually decorated suites and rooms, starting at £140 per night. The rate includes breakfast, with options ranging from brioche french toast to a full English.
Alternatively, The Dial House in Reepham is an excellent base to discover Norfolk. The quirky rooms, with interiors based on themes such as “Paris” and “Natural History”, start from £139 per night. Guests can also book treatments at the onsite beauty clinic.
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