Motorcycle tourism remains a relatively novel concept in the Philippines, despite the prevalence of two-wheeled transport as a mainstay of daily life.
Yet, for many, the notion of long-distance motorcycle touring conjures images of large groups of riders thundering through quiet provincial towns, engines roaring at 1,200cc, leaving disruption in their wake.
This perception is not unfounded. Unguided riding groups often organize so-called “fun rides” that quickly turn into informal races. The 2024 BOSS Ironman Motorcycle Challenge, for instance, resulted in numerous accidents, including three fatalities — an incident that did little to enhance the reputation of motorcycle tourism.
Fortunately, a growing movement of responsible riders are championing a more measured and respectful approach. Their philosophy embraces a slower, safer pace, with routes designed to encircle the archipelago at leisure.
Along the way, riders pause in remote towns, engaging with locals, sampling regional cuisine, and exploring into the country’s rich history and culture. It is, they believe, a more meaningful way to see the Philippines — on two wheels, but without the recklessness.
Much like Vietnam’s famed Ha Giang Loop, motorcycle touring in the Philippine Loop need not be a group endeavor. The country’s extensive network of highways, inner roads, and expressways — most notably the 3,379-kilometer Pan-Philippine Highway, or Maharlika Highway — offers a largely seamless route linking Luzon, Visayas, and Mindanao, with ferry crossings bridging the islands.
This infrastructure allows riders to embark on a cross-country journey at their own pace, whether in small groups or as a couple sharing a single motorcycle.
Newly minted Philippine Loopers
“Adventure awaits,” as the adage goes. For longtime couple Ramir and Gelyka, however, a great adventure is already knocking.
Even amid the flurry of wedding preparations (they tied the knot this month), the pair found time to map out the journey of a lifetime, a ride that would take them around the country.
For Gelyka, a seasoned travel writer, exploring the country has long been second nature. And with Ramir, a photographer and passionate rider, it seemed only fitting to take their shared love for travel to the next level: a full Philippine Loop.
Their journey, which began on April 14, 2024, in San Mateo, Rizal, and concluded over a month later on June 1, spanned 5,335.3 kilometers, covering 23 riding days interspersed with 20 days of rest and exploration.
“We spent a year planning,” Ramir explained. “It started with buying a higher-displacement motorcycle and taking several long rides to familiarize ourselves with the road ahead.”
Preparation for the journey included Ramir undertaking a basic riding course and the couple upgrading their gear to ensure safety, comfort, and convenience.
“We had been riding even before the pandemic, using a Kymco Like 150 scooter,” Ramir said. “But for the Philippine Loop, we knew we’d need a motorcycle with a higher displacement, so we ended up choosing the Royal Enfield Himalayan 411.”
With Ramir on the handlebar and Gelyka as a back rider, the couple had already clocked hundreds of kilometers on their Kymco Like 150, riding from Rizal to Albay, Benguet, and La Union.
But with their sights set on the Philippine Loop, they took their newly acquired Himalayan 411 on a series of test runs — to Bicol, Baler, and Zambales — fine-tuning both machine and mindset before the journey began.
On the road experiences
As their Philippine Loop unfolded, it didn’t take long for the couple to hit both the peaks and pitfalls of motorcycle touring.
“The weather was the toughest part, especially during our ride from Tuguegarao to Aurora,” Gelyka admitted. “Some days, the heat pushed close to 40°C, only to be chased by sudden, unforgiving downpours.”
The challenges stacked up — like the two days they spent recuperating in an Iloilo hotel, downed by a bad serving of taho — but Ramir and Gelyka quickly realized that the magic of the journey far outweighed the struggles.
The highs hit harder, the sights felt richer, and the moments they shared became stories worth telling, packed with lessons and revelations they hadn’t anticipated.
Traversing the steep, winding roads of Mountain Province aboard their Himalayan 411, Ramir and Gelyka faced countless horseshoe curves that seemed to stretch endlessly into the horizon.
Yet with each turn, they held fast to the belief that something remarkable awaited at the next stop.
“The ride to Tinoc, Ifugao, was easily one of my favorites,” Gelyka shared. “Reaching the Highest Point of the Philippine Highway System — 7,968.07 feet above sea level — was an achievement in itself. But what made it unforgettable was the journey through the vegetable fields and mountain villages of Buguias, Benguet, landscapes I’d only ever seen in photographs.”
From the back of the Himalayan 411, she found herself silently emotional.
“It hit me, this was one of those rare moments when a place you’ve always dreamed about suddenly surrounds you, and for a while, the world feels perfectly in tune.”
Among the many sights, one stood out: a Palawan cherry blossom (balayong) in full bloom.
“Along the skyline route to Quirino, we spotted this beautiful Bolilising tree, its branches bursting with vivid pink flowers,” she recalled. “It was the perfect excuse to get our tired butts off the motorcycle for a quick photo op.”
Soon enough, the couple’s journey was filled with the breathtaking landscapes of the Philippine countryside. By opting for a leisurely pace, Ramir and Gelyka embraced the opportunity to truly experience their surroundings, taking time to “stop and smell the flowers,” as the saying goes.
This slower rhythm also allowed them to engage with locals, uncovering local culture along the way.
“One of our favorite stops was in South Cotabato, in the town of Lake Sebu,” Gelyka said. “It wasn’t part of our original itinerary, but a local we met in General Santos City encouraged us to go.”
Though the ride from General Santos took a couple of hours, the journey through lush forests and rugged mountains was nothing short of surreal.
“We stayed at Punta Isla Lake Resort, where we were treated to an incredible view of the lake and a delicious fried tilapia dinner,” Gelyka said.
“We also had the privilege of visiting the T’boli Museum, where we spent an afternoon with Datu Bao Baay, learning about the indigenous T’boli culture.”
The following morning, they rose early to witness the water lilies in full bloom before setting off once again on their motorcycle journey to the next destination.
Philippine Loop community
Traveling the Philippines by motorcycle offered Ramir and Gelyka not only sweeping, Instagram-worthy views but also a firsthand education in the country’s rich culture, history, and cuisine.
Along the way, they crossed paths with fellow Philippine Loopers — an informal community of riders who, like them, have gone on a loop-trail around the country on two wheels.
“Although we’ve been riding since the pandemic, we’ve never been part of any moto club or riding group. We prefer to keep things intentionally relaxed and slow,” Ramir explained.
“When we joined the Philippine Loop, it was a pleasant surprise to meet other loopers on the road. We recognized each other by our distinctive Philippine Loop vests and shirts.”
“Imagine riding from Tuguegarao to Baler, Aurora, on a scorching day, and then encountering another looper heading in the opposite direction,” he continued.
“We didn’t stop for a conversation — just a peace sign or a friendly honk. That simple gesture was enough to remind us we weren’t alone on the road, and it was exactly what we needed to keep going.”
There were also instances when the duo would encounter fellow Philippine Loopers in times of distress as Ramir recalled one incident.
“On a quick side trip from Pagudpud to the Bangui Windmills, the road quickly shifted from paved to soft sand. We lost traction, fell, and briefly lost control,” he shared.
“Thankfully, a group of nearby Philippine Loopers came to our aid, lifting the bike and ensuring we were okay. We continued on to the windmills as if nothing had happened — just some dusty pants and boots.”
In Cotabato City, Ramir and Gelyka found themselves welcomed by a small group of Philippine Loopers who offered to show them around and share the best way to experience the city.
“It was a wonderful feeling to feel safe and welcomed in a place so far from home,” said Ramir, reflecting on the unexpected camaraderie that made the experience all the more special.
Loop essentials
For those planning a Philippine Loop adventure, Ramir and Gelyka offered a few key pieces of advice beyond ensuring you have the proper motorcycle and gear.
First and foremost, stay hydrated. “Make quick stops, especially under the intense sun, and drink fresh buko juice whenever you can,” they suggested, noting the refreshing alternative to soft drinks.
Gear is also crucial — investing in protective riding equipment ensures safety for the unexpected moments that may arise on the road.
Stretching before each ride is another must-do. “A few minutes of stretching and breathing exercises can loosen muscles, release tension, and reduce the risk of cramps,” said Gelyka.
They also recommend staying active during rest days by walking to prevent stiffness. When it comes to the ride itself, don’t ride on an empty stomach.
“Lack of food can lead to irritability and poor decision-making,” Ramir warned, emphasizing the importance of a balanced meal beforehand.
Pacing is key, too. The couple advises against rushing as they shared speeding up to only 60-70 kph maximum.
“Speed increases the risk of accidents and can cloud judgment,” Ramir explained. The Philippine Loop is about the journey, not the race.
Lastly, always double-check your route. While Google Maps is helpful, it’s important to verify directions the night before and consider alternate paths.
Ramir and Gelyka preferred main highways over bypass roads, not only for convenience but for better access to motorcycle services should problems arise.
Ramir emphasized the importance of understanding basic troubleshooting for your bike. “Familiarize yourself with common issues and have a contact for virtual assistance in case of emergencies. It’s also wise to identify nearby repair shops along your route,” he advised.
The couple also underscored the need for rest days. Riding nonstop can be taxing, so they recommend carving out time to recharge.
“Take a day off from riding, enjoy a leisurely walking tour, or simply relax in your hotel room,” Ramir suggested. “Don’t rush through your itinerary, allow for flexibility, errands, and downtime to ensure a more enjoyable and manageable journey.”
Engaging with locals, Gelyka said, adds another enriching aspect to the experience.
“Conversations with people you meet often lead to valuable recommendations,” she said.
One memorable suggestion came from a gasoline station attendant in Gumaca, who pointed them to a nearby bakeshop known for its must-try tuna melt pandesal.
These unplanned interactions, they found, often resulted in some of the most rewarding moments of the trip.
Lessons, revelations from the road
For Ramir and Gelyka, their Philippine Loop experience was more than just a continuous slideshow of stunning landscapes, vibrant culture, and new culinary delights — it was also an opportunity to probe deeper into their relationship and learn more about each other in ways only travel can reveal.
“As a couple who’s traveled together for over a decade, we’re pretty in sync when it comes to teamwork on the road,” said Gelyka.
But the loop pushed them to new levels of patience and understanding. “This trip really helped us see each other’s strengths and weaknesses more clearly,” Ramir said.
While he took the reins on navigation and route planning, Gelyka managed the logistical side: booking accommodation, finding places to eat, and handling ferry tickets, gas stations, and laundry.
The couple admits that their North Luzon leg wasn’t without its challenges.
“We had a few misunderstandings with navigation that led us off course — definitely not ideal under the scorching sun,” said Ramir.
But the experience was a lesson in adaptability. “By the time we reached VisMin (Visayas and Mindanao), we were determined to do things better,” Gelyka added.
After taking a week-long break at home, they returned to the road with a renewed sense of purpose.
“We made sure to check in with each other, discussing what worked and what didn’t, always trying to improve with each new leg of the journey.”
After passing through a total of 45 provinces and spending approximately P120,000 on food, gas, accommodations, ferry fares, and various tourist activities, Ramir and Gelyka’s 43-day journey — including a week of rest after the Northern Luzon leg, finally drew to a close.
Yet for Gelyka, the conclusion only signals the start of future adventures. “Once you’ve completed the Philippine Loop for the first time, it’s impossible not to return for another ride,” she said.
As they sailed on their final ferry ride from Mindoro to Batangas, Gelyka reflected on the emotional moment.
“I was a bit emotional, sipping my cup of coffee,” she admitted. “I couldn’t believe it was over and that tomorrow we’d wake up at home instead of somewhere on the road, gearing up for the next adventure. I was feeling sepanx (separation anxiety), a sense of longing. At that moment, we both knew we’d be back.” – Rappler.com