It was a chilly 4C in London last Monday night when the Fashion Awards (aka the industry’s office Christmas party) took place at the Royal Albert Hall. Not ideal if you’re wearing a high fashion iteration of a naked dress.
But for every gown that was a wisp of gossamer silk, there was an outfit that had, in fact, taken the December chill into consideration. Take Sharon Stone in her Brunello Cucinelli shearling coat, or Alexa Chung in her Chloé bomber jacket dress, Helena Christensen with a fluffy shawl, plus all of the tailored evening coats on the likes of Kim Cattrall and Gwendoline Christie.
It also called to mind many of the guests I saw at the Saint Laurent show in Paris in October, where evening gowns with leather bomber jackets appeared to be the unofficial dress code.
It’s proof that there’s no need to compromise on warmth during party season, and there are plenty of options that are more sophisticated than your old puffer. In fact, there’s something for every taste.
If you’re someone who dresses up regularly, there’s a strong case for investing in a “party coat” that you can wear over your evening glam. “There is nothing worse than spoiling a beautiful party dress with an old ‘day’ coat,” says Wiggy Kit founder Wiggy Hindmarch.
“I think there is a real need to make sure that the coat that you wear to an event is a further projection of what you have on underneath it,” she says.
A sleek, tailored coat is the favoured style for Suzannah London founder Suzannah Crabb, whose designs are regularly worn by the royals. “I love the idea of a slick, tailored coat thrown over party wear,” she says. “It grounds the frivolous layers beneath, and the contrast of something sharp against something dreamy is super chic. It delivers that cool, effortless, no-fuss attitude I’m always drawn to.”
So what are the other options? Here are five chic ways to make your partywear winter-friendly.
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The bomber jacket
OK, it’s not the warmest outerwear, but it is an extra layer that works beautifully with all kinds of dresses – as seen on Chung and Ellie Goulding. I like a slightly oversized, slouchy fit, which works as well with jeans by day as it does with maxi or minidresses by night. Nylon is fine, but leather and suede look most luxurious – Essentiel Antwerp, Zara and M&S do very convincing fakes if the real deal is out of budget.
The furry coat
These are very much back in style, and, as Stone proves, make for wonderful evening coats. A mid-length like hers looks great with suits, trousers and minis. For a longer dress, a longer coat is required, while a shorter or cropped style will work with most outfits. Keep the colour neutral: black, brown, cream are all good options, whatever you wear beneath.
The tailored coat
This is the grown-up’s way to complete a party look, and if you are in the market for an eveningwear-friendly coat, this would be my recommendation, as it’s the most versatile. There are no rules on colour, but black is classic (do remember to use a lint roller before wearing it because specks of dust and pet hair can make an expensive coat look cheap in a heartbeat).
Cream always looks luxurious, or you can follow the lead of the Princess of Wales at this year’s Christmas carol concert with deep forest green. Add a brooch to the lapel for a little extra sparkle.
The main character coat
These are outfits in themselves, as demonstrated by Roksanda in her electric blue ensemble. You can be as bold as you like with this category, and there’s no obligation to take your coat off indoors if you don’t want to, either. The best thing is that nobody will notice or care if you wear the same little black dress to every party this season. If bright hues aren’t your thing, consider a jacquard opera coat, for a softer take on evening drama.
“Length is of vital importance, so I usually opt for a super long coat that covers all types of hemlines,” says Hindmarch. “The way I design mine is to almost mimic the look of a dress itself with a beautiful silhouette. It must be decadent and sumptuous. This year we brought out the Zolta Coat – an aubergine quilted cocoon coat with a removable fleece wool collar and all tied up with a black leather corded belt for even more drama.”
The cape
This is a great look, and it’s absolutely possible to carry off without looking like an extra from The Traitors – even if you’re Celia Imrie and you’ve just done a stint on the hit BBC show. Toteme’s floral tulle is an elegant option that you can wear over any black dress for years to come (ideal if you like to cover your upper arms). Mini capes, as seen on Laura Whitmore, are equally cool and achieve the same effect.
The stole
Yes, it sounds granny-ish in theory, but Christensen proved it can be anything but. The key is in the textural contrast between the dress and the shawl. The sleek elegance of Christensen’s blue Victoria Beckham gown is enhanced by the fuzzy grey of her stole. This would work just as well with black on black, as well as bolder contrasts such as brown and butter yellow, or red and pale pink. Alternatively, try Nour Hammour’s leather wrap over a black suit or textured dress.