The stately 48-passenger Hebridean Princess, one of the world’s smallest ships, turns heads wherever it goes around its wondrous home of the Hebrides – even catching the eye of the late Queen, who chartered it twice for royal family holidays.
Step aboard Hebridean Princess, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2024 and is one of three ships in Hebridean Island Cruises’ fleet, and you’ll instantly see why, as you ease off into a gentler era of luxurious cruising.
Overall score 8/10
Style and Character 9/10
This old 1960s car ferry – and “citadel ship” (ask them to share that secret when on board) – hasn’t looked back since being brilliantly reborn as a luxury cruise ship in 1989.
Hebridean Princess is a historic marvel with the original Chadburns still in position by the bridge, with a wire relay to the engine room. The ship shines with its old school red funnel and deep royal blue hull.
Every year, Hebridean Princess has to be hauled into dry dock, parts scrounged from wherever and increasingly made by tradespeople whose art is dying. The ship sails again, and its faithful regulars breathe a collective and affectionate sigh of relief.
The plump, muted tartan sofas and armchairs of the fore Tiree Lounge enjoy an ever-changing panorama of the Hebrides; aft, the Columba is the one-sitting restaurant. Nooks and crannies dotted in and out offer quiet space for a wee dram, a game of chess or reading a book.
Cabins 8/10
There are obvious restrictions to size and fancy tech with the cabins on board this old dame. They do, however, make excellent use of space – and suitcases are whisked away to maximise room and no cabin feels cramped, even the cosy solos.
The décor is tasteful tartan – think smooth lifestyle magazine rather than Brigadoon – and, unusually for a Scottish small luxury ship, some cabins have baths.
Room service is informal and flexible, with the crew happy to serve fresh tea and shortbread or pop open a bottle of burgundy. My favourite cabins are the forward-facing Isle of Coll and the Isle of Colonsay – watching incomparable St Kilda emerge out of the cobalt Atlantic from my bed is something that still burns within me.
Food and Drink 8/10
I’ve spoken to potential guests worried about the one-sitting, one-restaurant dining being stuffy. It really isn’t. Yes, you should dress to impress on the gala dinner nights (when a haggis is piped in and a Burns address given), or you can show off any night, but you don’t need to.
There are intimate tables for two, and I find that at these you often end up chatting to your neighbours. Solo travellers can join a larger table where an officer provides company, insight and entertainment.
Breakfast is a lavish buffet, with a hot dish of the day, often served with a Scottish element like salmon or haggis. Lunch is a fairly relaxed affair, with dinner acting as the main event. The focus is more on quality ingredients like the best of Buccleuch beef, Shetland mussels and hand-dived Orkney scallops, rather than fancy foams and daring new flavours. All meals (and drinks) are included in the fare.
Service and Facilities 8/10
It’s 11/10 for service with a crew-to-guest ratio that most cruise lines can only dream of; almost one to one. The words I hear most often from passengers are “intimate” and “genuine”, qualities that speak of great recruitment and training. Hebridean Princess doesn’t have a casino, a pool nor a flurry of bars. It doesn’t need them, not when the on-board experience and scenery are both so special.
Entertainment and Excursions 8/10
On-board entertainment is limited to gentle jokes and tall stories after dinner in the Tiree Lounge, following a rundown of plans for the next day. Guests tend to just head to the Tiree if they feel social – there are always passengers around for a chat, and the crew step in if there aren’t – or choose a quieter area indoors or out.
The frequent daytime cruising encourages blissful afternoon snoozes. Trips ashore are the epic highlight, often utilising Hebridean Princess’s efficient tenders, which leave from their operations deck. Expect spirit-soaring sea cliffs, brooding Highland massifs and jaw-dropping beaches, alongside distilleries, boutique shopping and the odd cosy pub where you just stick your drinks on the ship’s tab.
Value for Money 9/10
It is a sheer joy that should never be taken for granted, given the herculean effort of ensuring the ship keeps going every year, that money can still buy a cruise on board Hebridean Princess. The vessel remains good value for money, and you could probably recoup a fair chunk of your ticket price by enjoying the bottomless Taittinger.
Access for guests with disabilities?
The lack of lifts makes Hebridean Princess tricky for wheelchair users. The line requests that anyone with limited mobility travel with a companion who can assist them. If in doubt, the company is happy to chat things through on the phone.
Family-friendly?
Children aged 12 and over are allowed, but there are no dedicated family facilities, children’s menus or interconnecting cabins. The ship could work for teens comfortable in adult-oriented restaurants, who appreciate spectacular scenery and don’t mind the company of adults.
About our expert
Robin McKelvie
As a veteran cruise writer, Robin has been on over 50 Scottish cruises and recommends setting sail for Caledonia if, like him, you crave authenticity, thoughtful luxury, great food and world-class wildlife, plus the finest beaches, whisky and sunsets on the planet.