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An expert guide to ski holidays in Serre Chevalier, France’s friendliest resort

Telegraph Ski & Snowboard
15/11/2025 08:07:00

Serre Chevalier is unlike any other French ski resort. The whole area has a rural and unpretentious feel, with 13 old villages strung along a valley floor and a sizeable ski area of mainly wooded and north-facing slopes.

The rustic old villages have narrow cobbled streets and the main ones are lined with small shops, bars and restaurants. Each of the main villages has modern extensions built from the 1960s onwards, which contrast sharply in style with the older parts.

One of the “villages”, Briançon, is really a town. It combines modern buildings in the valley with an ancient walled city high above that is a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Stay on track with the essential facts from the resort below, and scroll down for our insider guide to a day on the pistes, expert ratings and advice. For further Serre Chevalier inspiration, see our guides to the resort’s best restaurants and après ski.

In this guide:

Resort guide

If approaching from the nearest airport – Turin – Briançon (set at 1,300m) is the first resort base along the valley, with a big gondola up into the eastern end of the ski area. Then come Chantemerle (at 1,350m) and Villeneuve/La Salle les Alpes (1,400m), with gondolas, fast chairlifts and a cable car into the central section of the ski area. Finally there is Le Monêtier-les-Bains (1,500m), which has a fast chairlift into the western end of the ski area. Of these, Le Monêtier is the smallest, quietest and most unspoilt.

Après-ski is relatively quiet, but each of the main villages has a few bars to explore. Extra-curricular activities include dog sledding and tobogganing, as well as fat-tyre bike riding, mountain karting (driving downhill in a specially designed, three-wheeled go-kart), karting on ice, and a 1,100m zipwire from the Chantemerle cable car, which reaches speeds of 110km per hour.

For a different take on après, there’s plenty of choice. Les Grand Bains du Monêtier is a huge spa complex with naturally heated indoor and outdoor pools, hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms, and a long menu of treatments. There’s also an adults-only area, plus a restaurant with views over the glacier and mountains.

The ancient walled city of Briançon is well worth a visit if not staying there, and guided tours are available in English. There’s also a multi-screen cinema, a casino, swimming-pool and ice-skating rink.

The resort’s ski area spreads from Briançon to Le Monêtier (around 15km by road), and travelling from one end to the other is possible without going down to the valley villages. It’s split up into four distinct sectors, with more than enough terrain for a week’s holiday. The ski area’s size gives a real feeling of travelling around and makes a delightful playground for intermediates of all standards.

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Piste guide

Serre Chevalier’s extensive ski area runs right along the valley above the four main villages of Briançon, Chantemerle, La Salle les Alpes/Villeneuve and Le Monêtier. It is interestingly varied, and big enough to give a real sense of travelling around between the different sectors.

Snow reliability is good. Most of the runs are north or north-east facing and 80 per cent of them are above 2,000m, so the snow stays in good condition. A third of the pistes are also equipped with snowmaking.

Another benefit is that almost two-thirds of the pistes are tree lined, which is unusual for a big French resort. This makes it a great place to be when it’s snowing, as there will be powder and good visibility in the trees in a blizzard – when tree-less resorts would experience white-out conditions.

While there are still some slow old drags and chairlifts on the upper mountain, these are steadily being replaced by fast chairlifts. High-speed chairlifts have replaced the former Eychauda and Cibouit lifts high above the resort. The Eychauda lift speeds up the journey towards Villeneuve.

The Pontillas gondola, which opened for 2023/24, links La Salle les Alpes village to the Méa sector (Villeneuve) in just eight minutes and carries 2,800 passengers per hour, with more beginner slopes open at the top station. Here, a new beginner “Pré de Jeanne” téléski will be added to the two existing lifts for 2025/26.

Beginners

All the main villages have good beginner areas and easy runs to progress to. ESF operates in all four villages but other ski schools are plenty and most have very good reputations.

Intermediates

Intermediates can buzz around all over the area in Serre Chevalier. While red runs outnumber blues, many are at the easy end of the scale. There are some lovely long runs too – such as Cucumelle above Villeneuve and the run from the top of the Prorel gondola back down to Briançon, which has stunning views of the town on the way down.

Experts and off piste

Both experts and adventurous intermediates will love two classic black runs down to the valley when they are groomed – which is most of the time. The Luc Alphand piste (named after the local downhill World Cup hero of the 1990s) descends to Chantemerle, and the Casse de Boeuf to Villeneuve.

The Tabuc black down to Le Monêtier is a lovely and usually delightfully uncrowded run away from all the lifts. Although an enjoyable cruise most of the way, it has a couple of seriously steep pitches that are often heavily mogulled. Several of the other black runs in the ski area are left ungroomed and marked as ‘Brut de Neige’. Avalanche protected and controlled, the ski patrol can give more detail about them.

Experts can also enjoy excellent off-piste terrain with a mountain guide, both in the top bowls and lower down in the trees.

Snowboarders

The Snowpark terrain park is impressive, with four separate zones suiting abilities from beginner to expert freerider. There’s also the MélèZone area in the forest at Chantemerle, with fun, wooden freestyle features, a boardercross course with big banked turns above Chantemerle, and a more family-friendly version – the FunnyCross – above Briançon.

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Who should go?

Intermediates will love Serre Chevalier – there are more red runs than blue, but many are at the easy end of the scale. Experts can also enjoy excellent off-piste terrain with a mountain guide, and there is a new beginners’ area that opened for 2024/25. The budget-friendly resort is one of the easiest in the Alps to reach by train and while après-ski is relatively quiet there is plenty to do off the slopes.

Where to stay

Serre Chevalier has lots of affordable accommodation, mainly in apartments or small hotels, and some UK tour operators run catered chalets here. But compared with most French resorts, there is little in the way of luxury options. Accommodation is spread across the four bases. Chantemerle is most central with best access to the ski lifts and slopes, while Villeneuve/La Salle les Alpes has a good selection of bars and restaurants. Le Monêtier-les-Bains is quiet with a more authentic and traditional alpine atmosphere. For affordability, Briançon is the best choice, with the added allure of its historic walled city centre.

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How to get there

UK ski specialists tend to favour accommodation in the villages of Villeneuve and Chantemerle and holiday package prices for three- and four-star hotels are competitive compared to other ski resorts. The big three, Crystal (crystalski.co.uk), Ski Solutions (skisolutions.com) and Inghams (inghams.co.uk) have a strong presence here, and Club Med (clubmed.co.uk) has recently reopened its all-inclusive resort hotel just above Villeneuve after renovation. Peak Retreats (peakretreats.co.uk) offers self-drive packages including Eurotunnel crossing. Turin is the nearest airport, with a two hour and 30 minute transfer. Linkbus (linkbus-alps.com) provides reasonably priced shuttle transfers between the airport and resort.

When to go

With runs that are largely north or north-east facing and most at high altitude, this resort is relatively snow sure throughout the season. And because most pistes are tree lined, it’s a good choice for periods when snowfall and low visibility are more likely. Over two weeks in January (January 15 to 24, 2026), Briançon hosts the Altitude Jazz Festival, with concerts around the area, daytime and evenings. An end-of-season event in April will focus on regenerative skiing. Looking ahead, Serre Chevalier will be a host for half-pipe skiing, snowboarding and freestyle skiing competitions in the 2030 Winter Olympics.

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Know before you go

Essential information

The basics

Local laws & etiquette

by The Telegraph