It was a hub of lead mining and shipbuilding. It boomed again thanks to genteel Victorians taking the seaside air, turning it into the “Biarritz of Wales”. And, more recently, it provided the backdrop to a genre-defying Welsh noir. The idiosyncratic seaside resort of Aberystwyth, “Aber” to the locals, pivots around its Norman castle and twin beaches – and maintains an isolated air thanks to its westerly position on Cardigan Bay.
Proudly Welsh-speaking, it’s now home to the National Library of Wales, the nation’s largest arts centre, and bolstered by a lively student population during university term times. But there’s also an air of faded grandeur, with some of the pastel-coloured Victorian and Edwardian resort hotels in desperate need of some love.
The arrival of the railway in the 1860s transformed the town’s fortunes, establishing a thriving coastal resort; the opening of the Royal Pier, the first in Wales, soon followed. The current version is somewhat shorter than its 1865 original after a series of heavy storms, but it retains a kiss-me-quick array of arcade games, attractions and bars.
There are green shoots of regeneration, too. The first phase of the wave-crashed promenade’s £10.8 million facelift is almost complete, although the introduction of promenade parking charges is a bugbear to locals. The renaissance of the Old College, the grand old Victorian building that first served as the first home of the University of Wales, should be completed by 2027, with a new cultural centre and a four-star hotel. Britain’s only statue of Edward VIII, who abdicated, will be restored to its starring role upon reopening.
The wider Ceredigion coastline, too, has plenty to offer, forming part of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path. Expect spectacular hiking, tales of smugglers and shipwrecks, and possible glimpses of bottlenose dolphins south towards Cardigan at Mwnt beach.
What’s it really like?
Aber wears its quirks with pride, a tradition celebrated by the author Malcolm Pryce in his detective novel Aberystwyth Mon Amour. There’s offbeat charm to the back streets, plus old-school seaside fun, but also stylish cafés and boutiques. It’s these contrasts that struck me most of all. For every top-notch café such as the Cabin, or Driftwood Designs, with its cool Cymru souvenirs, there’s a Lip-Licking Fried Chicken. And for every dive-bombing seagull after your chips, there are people sitting on the beach, fed by street-food carts, soaking up another glorious Aber sunset.
Independent outlets worth checking out include Ystwyth Books, a second-hand seller, or the Bottle & Barrel for a range of Welsh craft ales. And for fans of the television series Hinterland, the original Welsh noir, it’s location-spotting heaven. The programme recast the region as the murder capital of Mid Wales and made much of its folkloric back story with ominous inland visits to Devil’s Bridge, located at the end of the heritage Vale of Rheidol Railway, and the spookily submerged forest at Borth to the north.
What’s not to like?
Sunbathing is a gritty experience. The beach is more shingle than sand thanks to offshore currents – the sand ends up at Harlech. A promenade stroll is great for sea air, albeit tempered with regular wafts of rotting seaweed. It was captured in 1404 by Welsh folk hero Owain Glyndwr, but destroyed on the instruction of Oliver Cromwell so that it could not be used against him during the Civil War in the 1640s.
Do this…
Visitors have been strolling along the 1½-mile promenade since the time of Queen Victoria, with the tradition of kicking the iron bar at the end of Marine Terrace for good luck. Constitution Hill, at the top of visitor hub North Beach, offers widescreen bay views and glimpses of the mountains of Snowdonia on a clear day. Take the Aberystwyth Electric Light Railway, the longest electric cliff railway in Britain, to the top and visit the Camera Obscura.
For a culture fix, the National Library of Wales maintains the tradition of more books than people in Aber, including the oldest existing Welsh text, the 12th-century Black Book of Carmarthen. It hosts regular events and exhibitions.
Eat this…
Most people make a beeline for Ultracomida, the excellent deli-café on Pier Street, with its Aladdin’s cave of Iberian, French and Welsh foodie treats. But hidden-gem alternatives include the Italian coffee house Agnelli’s, a bustling, family-run place for Italian coffees, pastries (try a Sicilian lemon cannoli) and a small lunch menu.
Medina is a great place for all-day dining, the north African-motif venue having transformed an old spit-and-sawdust pub. It turns into a popular restaurant by night and the owners also run an open-air kiosk for snacks on the promenade.
But don’t do this…
The Ceredigion Museum, sharing a building with the tourist information centre and the Coliseum Coffee House downstairs, documents Aberystwyth’s history against an elegant backdrop of a restored Edwardian theatre. But the museum closes this May for maintenance work, with the Grade II-listed building expected to reopen in 2026/27. It plans to host pop-up displays in the interim.
From a local
Sean Westlake is the chairman of the Wales Official Tourist Guides Association and based in Aberystwyth. He says: “Aber has everything you need, from cultural events via shopping to coastal walks. Yet, within 15 minutes, you’re lost among waterfalls and mountains, watching the red kites circling overhead. Most of all, Aber has the best sunsets in Wales.”
From a tourist
Carys Mitchell, 11, and Olivia Mitchell, eight, visiting from Hamilton, New Zealand, are having a day out with auntie Ffion and nanny Vera (Mitchell). They say: “We’re having a day at the seaside, loving the ice creams and arcade games on the pier. We like the different-coloured houses. It looks very different to the North Island back home.”
Chris and Jayne Maxwell are visiting from Telford, Shropshire: “Aberystwyth is our go-to seaside day trip from Shropshire. I’ve been coming for years on my motorbike, but it looks on the up these days with new investment. Aber took a battering in the 2015 storm but it’s cleaner and smarter these days. It’s perfect for a sunny day.”
Get there
Aberystwyth is the terminus for Transport for Wales services with connection to Shrewsbury in two hours and Birmingham New Street in three. By car, take the A44 via Welshpool, and follow the A487 into the town centre.
Stay here
Gwesty’r Marine Hotel & Spa (doubles from £135 B&B) is a classic seaside hotel a short walk from the train station. Book a sea-view room and the sounds of the waves will lull you to sleep.