I love the ski resorts in western Canada, spanning Alberta and British Columbia for two reasons: they have fabulous powdery snow and friendly people who go out of their way to make your holiday special.
The best way to experience this dream ski destination is on a road trip – over the years I’ve done several, spanning 10 days and up to six resorts in each time. One always stands out: Whistler Blackcomb.
I first visited what is now North America’s largest resort in the early 1990s, when the resort’s two mountains (Whistler and Blackcomb) were run separately and had their own lift passes.
A lot has changed since then. Both peaks are now owned by Vail Resorts, and run as one mega-resort. They’re linked at village level and mid-mountain by the Peak 2 Peak Gondola, which holds 28 people per cabin and gives spectacular views of the unspoiled Fitzsimmons Creek below.
Huge and varied ski area
Whistler Blackcomb is North America’s biggest ski area (almost 8,200 acres), much bigger than any other Canadian resort and comparable in terms of groomed trails to some of Europe’s biggest areas.
In the old days, you chose one mountain (Whistler or Blackcomb) to ski and stayed on it all day. You can still do that if you wish and each has plenty of terrain to keep you happy. Both have big verticals of over 1,500m, with open bowls at the top and lots of treelined terrain below.
A paradise for experts and intermediates
Experts are spoiled for choice here, with endless off-piste options in the high bowls, including the infamous 41-degree Couloir Extreme. Some of my favourite runs are reached by a short hike up Spanky’s Ladder on Blackcomb, where you’re rewarded by a huge, deserted, powdery bowl and several ways down.
You’ll get the best out of the expert terrain by having a guide, but, unlike in the Alps, the ungroomed terrain is patrolled and avalanche-controlled – as long as you stay within the marked ski area boundary, which may be changed according to snow conditions. There are also excellent local heli-skiing and cat-skiing options too.
Across both mountains, there are superbly easy and cruising blue runs, served mainly by high-speed chairlifts. A great test is the long (7km) Peak to Creek run, with wonderful views over a steep valley and to the rather phallic Black Tusk mountain. A personal favourite is the easy black Dave Murray Downhill when it has been groomed – the venue for the 2010 Winter Olympic men’s downhill race.
Excellent ski schools
The resort’s main ski school is top-notch (Whistler Blackcomb Ski and Snowboard School) and has an excellent reputation for teaching adults and children of all standards. I’ve also had great days with the Extremely Canadian, which runs one- and two-day Steep Skiing Clinics designed to let experts and adventurous advanced intermediates get the most out of the resort’s fabulous steep slopes – expect a mixture of guiding and tuition and a long day from 8:15 am till the lifts close.
I also recommend trying the resort’s First Tracks event, which enables you to catch an early gondola up the mountain from 7:30 am and ski deserted, freshly groomed pistes or powder before the hordes start arriving an hour later. The price (£17) includes a voucher for food and drink too.
A world-class village
Whistler Blackcomb’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean means the weather can change surprisingly quickly – it’s prone to rain at resort level, which turns to snow as you ride the lifts up. Don’t let that deter you though, it has a great snow record on its upper slopes – an average of almost 11 metres a year (more than most Colorado and European resorts).
Whistler Village at the foot of Whistler Mountain is the liveliest place to stay, with lots of bars, restaurants and hotels. Upper Village, at the foot of Blackcomb Mountain, a short walk or bus ride away, is smaller and quieter. Both have excellent five-star hotels, plus cheaper options, including lots of apartments.
Mountain restaurants here get very crowded and are mainly self-service. I prefer to reserve at one of the table-service options – Christine’s on Blackcomb (my favourite) or Steeps Grill on Whistler to avoid the queues. At resort level, there’s plenty of choice. My favourites include Araxi in Whistler Village and the Rimrock Café, a taxi-ride away near Creekside. I always enjoy the Garibaldi Lift Company (GLC), Longhorn and Dubh Linn Gate Irish pub in Whistler Village and Merlin’s in Upper Village for their lively apres-ski.
Few places beat Whistler Blackcomb for things to do other than ski: the tubing park is great fun for all the family; the brave can try riding a bobsleigh down the Olympic course (with an experienced driver); Ziptrek Ecotours will guide you through the forest on ziplines and suspension bridges; plus there are helicopter rides, dog sledging and snowmobiling. Every Sunday evening there’s a free, floodlit Fire and Ice display of professionals skiing through a blazing ring of fire, followed by fireworks.
Essentials
My favourite place to stay is the Fairmont Chateau Whistler at the foot of Blackcomb Mountain – great position and service, luxurious rooms, indoor and outdoor pools and hot tubs, sauna and steam rooms. Ski Independence (0131 243 8097) offers seven nights from £2,927 per person, including flights, transfers and ski carriage.
Plan the perfect trip with our Whistler ski guide.
The runners-up
Banff
This is the main place to stay in Banff National Park. Three separate ski areas with almost as much terrain as Whistler in total and runs for all standards. But you need to choose which to go to each day and a car or shuttle bus to reach it.
Plan the perfect trip with our Banff ski guide.
Fernie
A small modern village at the foot of a mountain renowned for heavy snowfalls and gnarly ungroomed terrain – best explored with a guide. Limited groomed runs for intermediates. Unpretentious old town a couple of miles away.
Sun Peaks
A friendly, traffic-free purpose-built resort with three linked mountains that make it Canada’s second-biggest linked ski area (with just over half as much terrain as Whistler). Runs suit intermediates best.