Cancun, the beach holiday hub of Mexico, is often dismissed by travellers as a destination of manufactured pleasure, and in a way, they are not wrong. It was, after all, conceived not by history but by a committee. In the late 1960s, the Mexican government wanted to build a new tourism hub and searched all over the country for the perfect spot based on weather, proximity, and scenic potential. They chose the deserted sand spit on the northeastern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula, and the Cancun we know today was born.
And yet, to see Cancun only as this meticulously planned paradise is to read just the first chapter of a far more compelling story. Having spent four years living in Mexico and exploring every corner of the Yucatan Peninsula, I’ve learned that the real draw of Cancun lies beyond the surface. Beyond its underexplored city streets, Cancun is a portal to the wonders of the Mayan world, a launching point into the vibrant depths of the planet’s second-largest barrier reef and a doorway to the peninsula’s sacred, subterranean world of crystalline cenotes.
For more Cancun inspiration, see our guides to the city’s best hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs, beaches and things to do.
In this guide:
How to spend your weekend
Day one: morning
If the beach is what you’re here for, base yourself in the sprawling Hotel Zone, a 14-mile (22-km) stretch of sandbar transformed into a tourist hub packed with resorts, restaurants and bars. Grab an early breakfast and make your way to the southern end of the zone to explore the stunning white-sand beach, Playa Delfines.
Kick back and enjoy the impossibly wide ribbon of white sand hammered by a sea that shifts from aquamarine to deep cobalt. The waves can get relatively big on windy days, but lifeguards are on duty. Try to pick a weekday to visit, as it can get crowded with locals on weekends, so that you can take an obligatory photo with the colourful Cancun sign without the queues.
At the northern, more sheltered end of the zone, Playa Langosta is a welcoming spot with beach bars serving up spicy michelada (beer with lime and chilli) and fresh coconut water. Swim in the cerulean waters and take in the views of the ferry boats zipping towards Isla Mujeres.
Afternoon
Have lunch late, as locals do, and head to Downtown (El Centro). Check in at Taquería Coapeñitos, a no-frills local institution, serving sublime tacos al pastor sliced directly from the kebab spit, washed down with a milky glass of horchata (sweet rice-milk drink).
Stroll south along Avenida Tulúm to reach the vibrant artisanal market of Mercado Ki Huic, where the scent of leather mingles with copal incense. This is the place to haggle for souvenirs, from vibrant, hand-painted calaveras (sugar skulls) to hand-woven hammocks. It’s more authentic than the markets along the Hotel Zone, and prices are slightly better.
Then, cross the Avenida Tulúm to reach Parque de las Palapas, the city’s main square. It’s an excellent spot for people-watching as night falls – locals like to come out for a stroll and let their kids play. The park is lined with a string of street stalls selling all sorts of Mexican delights. Try out fresh marquesitas, a quintessential Yucatecan treat – a crispy crepe rolled around gooey Edam cheese and Nutella – the perfect salty-sweet indulgence.
Late
Head back to the Hotel Zone for an elegant night out at Lorenzillo’s, a Cancun institution that has been serving fresh-from-the-sea lobsters for more than 30 years. You can enjoy lobster – mostly caught from the nearby Isla Mujeres – in almost any way you want: from grilled to dripping in butter as you watch the sun dip below the shimmering waters of the Nichupté lagoon.
Afterwards, head over to the ultra-chic Taboo for a signature smoky cocktail and sultry fire shows and contortionist performances. If you prefer a more energetic scene, book tickets to Coco Bongo, a Las Vegas-style live show with acrobatic acts and DJ sets or simply dance the night away at Mandala Nightclub.
Day two: morning
The next day, you’re off to explore the nearby island paradise of Isla Mujeres, where ivory white-sand spits stretch for miles. Catch your ferry from the terminal at Playa Tortugas and be sure to pack a towel, biodegradable sunscreen and water. Once off the ferry, rent a golf cart for the day to explore the five-mile-long island. Head south to the rugged cliffs of Punta Sur, a dramatic headland of limestone cliffs and Mayan ruins meeting the Caribbean Sea.
Spend some time snorkelling or chilling on the beach at Garrafón de Castilla, a low-key and calm alternative to the theme park, Garrafón Park, next door. Dive into the calm, clear waters and snorkel around the Palancar Reef, where you can spot sergeant majors and parrotfish flitting among the rocks, before sipping a margarita with the golden sand between your feet.
Afternoon
Drive to Playa Norte, consistently voted one of the world’s best beaches – aim to arrive at around 1pm, when many day-trippers are at lunch. Stake your claim on the powder-soft sand and wade out into the bath-warm, glassy, clear water, which remains shallow for hundreds of feet.
When hunger pangs hit, sample the region’s original slow food at Zama Beach Club. Try the whole grilled fish a la tikinxic, a traditional Mayan preparation where the catch of the day is marinated in sour orange and achiote paste, wrapped in banana leaves, and cooked over an open flame.
Late
On the way back to your hotel in Cancun, stop in at El Fish Fritanga, a casual palapa-roofed restaurant overlooking the Nichupté Lagoon. Catch the sunset, listen to live music and feast on ceviche tostadas, grilled octopus or the house speciality, huachinango (whole fried fish), along with exceptional cocktails. It’s a perfect end to a sun-kissed weekend on the Caribbean shores, which can easily be extended to include more days lounging on the beach or expanded to see more of the Riviera Maya.
When to go
Cancun is a year-round destination, but its busiest period is during the dry, peak season from December to April. Expect blissfully sunny days, balmy temperatures and little rain, but be prepared for bustling beaches.
The shoulder seasons of late April to May and November are arguably the best time to travel – crowds have thinned and the weather is still largely fantastic. Low season runs from June to October, which coincides with hurricane season and the highest heat and humidity. The sargassum seaweed season also tends to be most prominent during these summer months.
Where to stay
Luxury living
A haven for luxury lovers who appreciate gourmet cuisine: the restaurants at the JW Marriott Cancun Resort & Spa rank among the best in Cancun. Amenities are impeccable: a lagoon-style infinity pool lined with pergola-topped Bali beds, a pool with an artificial coral reef for divers and a Mayan-themed spa.
Read our full review here.
Designer digs
Sandos Cancun Luxury Resort fits extensive all-inclusive facilities and five upscale restaurants into a smaller property, creating an intimate adults-oriented atmosphere, with sleek design elements and dazzling infinity pools where you can laze the day away by the Caribbean Sea.
Read our full review here.
Budget bolthole
Overlooking the Laguna Nichupté in the Hotel Zone, hip coworking hostel Selina Cancun features bright pink walls, beautiful mural paintings, a wellness area, yoga deck and a great pool overlooking the lagoon and dedicated co-working spaces. Its bohemian-inspired communal areas and daily activities foster connection with fellow travellers.
Doubles from £50.
How to get there and how to get around
Cancun International Airport (CUN) is the second biggest airport in Mexico, served by direct flights from major UK airports. Pre-book an airport shuttle to avoid inflated taxi fares. ADO offers punctual and comfortable bus services from the airport to the city and beyond. Book your tickets online or at the airport arrivals hall.
If you plan to do some exploring outside of the resorts, your best bet is to hire a car. Established car rental agencies like Hertz and Avis have offices at the airport. There is a reliable bus system between the Hotel Zone and Downtown. The frequent, safe and remarkably cheap R-1 and R-2 routes are unbeatable for hopping between beaches and restaurants.
Know before you go
Essential information
Tourist office: turismoCancun.mx
The basics
Currency: Mexican Peso (MXN)
Telegraph code from abroad: +52
Time: GMT-5
Flight time: 10hr 30min (direct) from London
Local laws and etiquette
Tipping of 10-15 per cent is customary and expected for good service. A simple Spanish greeting (buenos días) is a polite and welcome gesture when entering shops or restaurants.
Accessibility
Modern resorts are largely accessible, but Downtown areas and archaeological sites present significant challenges for travellers with mobility issues.
About our expert
Nellie Huang
Nellie descended on the shores of Mexico four years ago after living in Singapore, the UK, Spain and the Netherlands, and finally found her happy place here. She has since written about Mexico for publications worldwide.