Phoenician Greeks arrived in Corsica the 6th century BC and named the island “Kallistè”, meaning beautiful. Its two names, past and present, give an accurate picture of its unique appeal; it’s at once coarse and beautiful. The French island’s spine is mountainous, unforgiving, craggy and dramatic, while snow storms and Corsica’s eight fearsome winds can sweep the land, regardless of the season.
It’s the coast that draws many to Corsica: 70-metre high cliffs topped with teetering, tightly-packed houses, hikes where you cross more cows than people, and water so clear that you can see the ripples it has made on the sand a metre below. But this isn’t a polished island of neat edges – the best spots usually require a short hike, or at the very least a gnarly drive, to reach. That’s all part of the charm though; Corsica rewards explorers. Here’s how to do it.
For more Corsica inspiration, see our guides to the best hotels, restaurants, beaches and things to do.
In this guide:
How to spend your weekend
Day one: morning
Corsica may only be 113 miles (183 km) long, but travel here takes time. If that’s something you’re short of, explore the area close to one of the island’s four international airports. Bastia (served by bi-weekly easyJet flights during the summer) is at the foot of Cap Corse. A narrow peninsula pointing accusingly north like an index finger, it’s the perfect size to explore in a weekend.
Pick up a hire car from the airport (ferries also arrive from the continent), and head to the heart of Bastia. Without a car, travel in Corsica is extremely difficult. Grab breakfast to-go from Pâtisserie Leoncini near the port (leaving the car in the multi-storey car park under Place St Nicolas) and stick your nose in at Saint-Jean-Baptiste Church and the Oratory of the Brotherhood of Saint-Roch. The elaborate pulpits, painted ceilings and crimson velour wallpaper make them look like stately homes.
Grab lunch to go from the hole-in-the-wall café at 12 Rue Napoléon. It doesn’t even have a name. There’s only one thing to buy, and that’s traditional tarts (that look like Cornish pasties made from samosa pastry), filled with herbes de maquis (think aromatics like myrtle, rosemary and savoury) and onion. They cost a pittance.
Afternoon
Drive six miles (10km) up the west coast to the fishing town of Erbalunga. There’s free parking opposite Terra di Catoni. Corsica Loisirs Aventure rents out sit-on-top kayaks to explore the creeks on either side of the town. Launch your kayak from Erbalunga’s walled harbour, and paddling south you’ll get a fantastic view of the mixture of architecture.
The grand mansions, known as the “American manors”, were built by sailors and traders from Cap Corse during the 19th century, who became prosperous and brought the trends they’d seen overseas back home. The tightly packed houses in town, which look as though they risk sliding into the sea, are more typical of the area, with peeling paint and less colour.
Late
One of four little boutiques in the Cap Corse, Terra di Catoni’s vineyards are just 2.5 miles (14km) north in Porticciolo – pick a designated driver and get started on a wine tasting. The Catoni family has lived on this land for more than 200 years, although for most of that time it was covered in maquis (the dense, low-growing shrubland that covers much of the Mediterranean) rather than vines and olive trees. They organise site visits and tastings, either on foot or by 4x4, but before you make your choice, be aware that the vines are grown at an altitude of over 200 metres.
The views over the Tuscan Archipelago are spectacular, and it’s a calf-buster to reach the top. Food is simple and fresh, with plenty of meat and pasta dishes.
Day two: morning
The D80 road, running up the east coast of Cap Corse, rises and plummets between hilltop villages, mausoleums and a mixture of grey-stone and fine-sand beaches.
Drive to Nonza for your coffee stop at Café de la Tour, and walk through the town to reach the 18th-century tower. From here you’ll get the best views over Nonza Beach. Stoney rather than sandy, it’s not the best for sunbathing, but this place is an open-air gallery when you’ve got a bird’s eye view. Artists and tourists create murals using the flat rocks or sign their names in the shingle. To get down to the beach, it a 15-minute walk via a steep footpath.
Afternoon
Continue north from Nonza and stop for lunch at O’Lamparo in Barrettali. Their terrace looks over scattered 19th- and 20th-century mausoleums, the only interruption among maquis-covered cliffs that sweep down to the sea. The menu changes regularly, but try the truffle-infused pizza bread if available.
After lunch, you’ve a choice of two sandy beaches to while away the afternoon. Both Giottani (3 miles/5 km south) and pint-sized Plage d’Alisu (6.2 miles/10 km north) are easy to access with a car. Bring your own supplies and water: there’s one creperie near Giottani and no infrastructure at Alisu.
If lounging isn’t your style, continue north to Centuri to hike the first section of the Sentier des Douaniers (Custom’s Trail). A 11-mile (19km) coastal path that traces the northern edge of Cap Corse, between Centuri and Macinaggio, it’s not particularly challenging, but completing the entire route will take all day.
Late
Book in to watch a Chants Polyphoniques concert, typical Corsican choral singing originally performed by shepherds. Generally performed by a group of men, it’s hymn-like and the lyrics are in Latin, sometimes with a little Corsican mixed in. CorseMusicEvents has a full schedule in English (locations vary). Friendly restaurant La Cigale, at the foot of Cap Corse between Saint-Florent and Oletta, regularly hosts concerts combined with dinner. Don’t miss their fried cheese balls, delivered daily by an elderly local and made using a secret recipe.
How to get there and how to get around
easyJet flies to Bastia from London Gatwick twice a week from May to October. The airport is 12 miles (20km) south from downtown. Rent a car from Europcar, Enterprise or SIXT at the airport. Exploring the island without a car is difficult and public transport in Cap Corse is largely non-existent. Corsica Ferries and Corsica Linea also run direct routes from various ports on the mainland, including Toulon, Nice and Marseille, with crossing times between nine and 12 hours.
When to go
Corsica is highly seasonal, and outside of April to October there’s very little open. Even during the shoulder months (April, October and to a certain extent early May and September), businesses often shut up shop or delay their opening, based on either weather or whim. The French school holidays (July and August) can get extremely crowded. Summer temperatures hover around 22C, and rainfall is at its lowest between June and August.
Where to stay
Luxury living
Tranquillity, luxury and romance combine with exquisite food and a sublime setting at Hôtel La Roya. This beachside, boutique hotel looks out over the turquoise bay and soft, golden sands of La Roya beach, alongside bustling St Florent.
Read our full review here.
Designer digs
Aethos sits between sea and summit, offering views of either landscape, in the village of Oletta, Cap Corse. It’s a peaceful retreat with just nine suites, in a 17th-century nobleman’s palace.
Read our full review here.
Budget bolthole
One of a very small number of hotels in Cap Corse, Marina d’Oro looks right over Macinaggio’s port. Rooms are simple but full of character, with exposed stone walls, and many have sea views.
Essential information
- British Embassy: There is no British Embassy in Corsica; the closest is in Marseille on the mainland (gov.uk)
- Office de Tourisme de Bastia, Place Saint-Nicolas, 20200 Bastia (bastia-tourisme.com)
- Emergency services: from mobile phone, dial 112. Different emergency services have different direct numbers in France, but any emergency service you call will make sure you are quickly put through to the right service. Ambulance (samu): dial 15; Police: dial 17; Fire (pompiers): dial 18
- Currency: euro
- Telephone code: from abroad, dial 00 33, then leave off the zero at the start of the 10-figure number. Most Corsica numbers start with 04; mobile numbers start with 06 or 07; numbers beginning 08 are special-rate numbers, ranging from 0800 freephone to premium-rate calls.
- Time difference: +1 hour
- Travel time from London: Between 2hrs 40mins direct (Bastia) and 3hrs direct (Figari)
Local etiquette and laws
- Always greet people with “bonjour”. Use the formal “vous” for anyone you don’t know well and those older than you. The informal “tu” is reserved for friends, family and children.
- It’s compulsory to keep fluorescent bibs, a hazard triangle and a breathalyser in the car when driving. Like the mainland, Corsicans drive on the right.
- Tipping in Corsica, as in France, is not mandatory and the general expectation is that tips are a reward for exceptional service.
- Accessibility for travellers with disabilities: outside of the main towns (Ajaccio and Bastia), Corsica is sorely behind when catering to travellers with reduced mobility. Many hotels have accessible rooms, but these tend to be adapted to travellers with reduced mobility rather than visual impairments or other disabilities.
About our expert
Anna Richards is The Telegraph’s Corsica expert. She christened her move to France in 2021 by hiking the island’s legendary GR20, and since then Corsica has drawn her back each year. She lives in Lyon.