The Night Riviera? Gosh, where are we, the South of France? Actually, no. This is the rather lovely name given to the sleeper train that six nights a week plies a route between the bright lights of London and the palm tree-lined avenues and sea breezes of Penzance, Cornwall.
As a huge rail travel fan, I have long harboured the desire to sample this iconic night train – one of just two sleeper services in the UK (the other being the Caledonian Sleeper).
In addition to the classy name, the Night Riviera has proper pedigree. It was launched in its current form in July 1983, but the bigger picture takes us all the way back to 1877 when overnight services on the route were first introduced by Great Western Railway.
A significant revamp in 2018 brought the train firmly into the 21st century, with contemporary furnishings and fittings and clever use of what is, of necessity, a very compact cabin space. Lending a party atmosphere, the lounge car remains open all night, and there’s even space in the Guard’s Van for surfboards.
Sounds fun. But how would the reality match up?
The routes
The primary route runs between London Paddington and Penzance, with boarding and alighting also possible at Reading and a number of destinations in Devon and Cornwall, including Plymouth and Truro. There are also stops enabling connections with Newquay, St Austell and St Ives.
Outbound, I opted for the eight-hour signature journey to Penzance, a stone’s throw from Land’s End. For the return, I couldn’t resist the opportunity to sample Pullman-style dining on a journey by day (see below).
The cabin options
I’m not going to lie – the dimensions of the beds on board are extremely modest, with the upper bunk being just 2ft 6in wide and 6ft 3in long. Tossing and turning isn’t even an option. Getting to the top bunk is at least made easier by a clever fold-away ladder, one notable innovation from the 2018 revamp.
In addition to the twin (two-bunk) option, there is a single category consisting solely of a lower berth which, without the obstruction of a top bunk, can convert into a sofa complete with a pull-out mini-table. Both cabin types have a washbasin (concealed under a lid), a slender wardrobe space with hangers, a blackout blind, bedside lights, sockets for charging phones and modest storage space for luggage.
For families and groups of friends, there are cabins with interconnecting doors. All in all, it’s a creative use of limited space.
The decor – a mixture of browns and greys – is soothing, and while it wasn’t the best night’s sleep (it rarely is on a train), I found there was something quite dinky and comforting about it all. And I liked the duvets.
Other accommodation options include a cabin adapted for wheelchair users, while budget travellers can opt for airline-style (but capacious) seats.
Food and drink
With a close-to-midnight departure time from London Paddington Station, I wasn’t expecting a lavish on-board meal, but I did pop down to the lounge bar. It has a mix of banquettes and two- and four-seater tables where you can enjoy hot drinks and alcoholic beverages, including Cornish pale ale, as well as snacks such as crisps, nuts and flapjacks. It was all a bit subdued, with my fellow passengers perhaps sensibly opting to try to get as much sleep as possible in the short time available.
For breakfast (complimentary), I went for tea, orange juice and granola, rather than the bacon bap option (I was saving space for those Cornish pasties).
Showers and WCs
None of the cabins has an en-suite WC or shower. Instead, there are shared loos at either end of each carriage. I’ve always found navigating train corridors in the dead of night part of the fun – though clearly this won’t apply to everyone. There are no showers on board the train, but there are some that you can book at the departure lounges at both Paddington and Penzance stations.
Access to lounges
As someone with an interest in history, a special treat came at the start of my journey: the chance to sit in what was once the waiting room used by Queen Victoria for journeys from London Paddington to Windsor. Her favoured spot – close to the fireplace – remains inside a small room that forms part of the larger lounge on Platform 1, to which passengers on the Night Riviera have access.
The lounge offers complimentary snacks and soft drinks, and free Wi-Fi. More modest lounge facilities at Penzance and Truro are also open to Night Riviera passengers.
Best time of year to go
For obvious reasons, the summer months are the most popular. With early dawns, you may – as I did, thrillingly – catch glimpses of the Royal Albert Bridge, Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s striking creation, and of Truro Cathedral. But with winter temperatures considerably milder than elsewhere in the UK, Cornwall is also a great place to visit out of season.
Service
A very civil member of staff came to take my breakfast order shortly after boarding and talked me through the various features of the cabin and facilities on the train. Should any issues arise, there is a button which can be pressed to request assistance.
Insider tips
While I enjoyed my time on the train, the brevity of the journey left little opportunity to take in the passing countryside or meet fellow passengers. So, having heard about the full Pullman dining experiences offered on the train between London and Plymouth, I decided to return during the day.
This meant I could savour the journey home (the stretch of line at Dawlish, where the sea is thrillingly close, was a highlight), while devouring a medley of finely-crafted dishes including pea and mint soup, fillet steak and a selection of regional cheeses.
I’d recommend one other stop: The Mad Bishop & Bear at Paddington station, a pub full of fascinating railway memorabilia.
Departure days and times
There are daily services in both directions except Saturdays. There is no service on December 24 and 25.
The train from London Paddington departs at 23.45 (23.50 on Sundays) and arrives in Penzance at 07.50 (07.54); the train from Penzance departs at 21.45 (21.15 on Sundays), arriving in Paddington at 05.04 (05.03). In the case of the latter – very early – arrival, it is possible to stay on board until 06.45.
The price and how to save money
To travel in a sleeper cabin on the Night Riviera you need to purchase a regular travel ticket (valid for a seat on the train) plus the supplement for a berth. Tickets cost from £47.50 one-way; sleeper supplements cost from £49 (single cabin) and £59 (twin cabin). For the best deals, book early (up to 12 weeks ahead of departure) and try to avoid peak summer months, as well as Fridays and Sundays.
How and where to book
Tickets can be booked at gwr.com. See gwr.com/travelling-with-us/pullman-dining for further information on the Pullman dining experience. Rail specialists Byway.travel can include the Night Riviera as part of a longer break to Cornwall.