Images of US Secretary of State Marco Rubio wearing shoes with a gap between them have sparked debate not only about aesthetics but also about fundamental principles of men's fashion.
Recent images of U.S. Secretary of State Marco Rubio and Vice President JD Vance have drawn attention as both appeared wearing formal black leather shoes, but the shoe collars were unusually wide, revealing noticeable gaps around the ankles.
According to The Wall Street Journal, President Donald Trump has recently made it a habit to gift shoes to officials in his administration. The chosen model is a mid-range Oxford shoe from Florsheim.
US Secretary of State Marco Rubio's open-toe shoes are currently a topic of discussion on fashion forums (Photo: Getty).
However, according to men's fashion expert Josh Peskowitz, these shoes are "clearly too big," going against the basic principle of dress shoes: a perfect fit for the foot.
In the world of men's fashion, where minimalism is highly valued, an ill-fitting pair of shoes can ruin the entire look, whether the wearer is a politician or a businessman.
From aristocratic icon to modern standard
Men's dress shoes are not simply accessories, but products of centuries of history and culture.
From medieval Europe, footwear has been a sign of class distinction. By the 17th century, under the reign of Louis XIV, high-heeled shoes—especially those with red heels—became a symbol of power for aristocratic men.
By the 19th century in England, dress shoes were standardized with the introduction of classic styles such as the Oxford and Derby.
Oxford shoes are a favorite style among gentlemen (Photo: Vogue).
Oxford shoes, with their closed lacing design, are believed to have originated at Oxford University and quickly became the standard for formal occasions. Derby shoes, with their open lacing, offer greater comfort and are more suitable for everyday life.
The development of industrialization also led to the mass production of leather shoes, making the product increasingly popular and no longer limited to the aristocracy.
Entering the 20th century, men's dress shoes continued to evolve in both style and function. Loafers – a type of shoe without laces – were born and quickly became popular due to their practicality. This was also the period when dress shoes were no longer bound by rigid rules, but gradually adapted to modern lifestyles.
Loafers have become a favorite among gentlemen in recent years (Photo: Vogue).
The influence of cinema and popular culture also contributed to shaping trends. Style icons like Cary Grant and James Dean made dress shoes a part of the sophisticated masculine image on screen.
Today, men's dress shoes are no longer confined to classic styles. Major fashion houses like Gucci and Prada are constantly redefining dress shoes by incorporating new materials, thicker soles, or hybrid styles that blend elegance and comfort. However, the core values remain: high-quality leather, a classic silhouette, and minimalist design.
When a perfect fit becomes the ultimate principle.
The controversy surrounding the shoes of American officials once again underscores the most important principle: shoe size.
According to the editors of GQ fashion magazine, ill-fitting shoes can significantly diminish a person's confidence and demeanor. A common rule is to try on shoes at the end of the day, when the feet are at their most expanded.
Experts from Esquire suggest that a well-fitting shoe should "snugly fit without being too tight," with a small amount of space at the toe to ensure flexibility.
Shoe size, color, and heel height are important factors when choosing dress shoes (Photo: News).
Formal leather shoes tend to stretch over time, while athletic shoes often require a wider and more cushioned insole.
"Experienced dress shoe wearers understand that they might feel a little tight at first, even causing minor blisters, but they will eventually stretch out and become comfortable," says Justin FitzPatrick, owner of J.FitzPatrick Footwear.
Florsheim also recommends that customers choose a larger size if they are unsure between two sizes. The company notes that athletic shoes are usually about half a size larger than dress shoes or regular shoes.
Color and height are rules that should not be ignored.
In the color palette of dress shoes, basic shades still hold a dominant position. Black is always the choice for formal occasions, while dark brown offers versatility, and light brown expresses a youthful, modern spirit.
Designer Tom Ford once stated, "A gentleman only needs two pairs of quality shoes – one black, one brown – to build a foundation of style." However, contemporary fashion is no longer so rigid. Flexible color combinations, as long as they harmonize with the overall outfit, are becoming a popular trend.
Nevertheless, the rule of matching shoes and belts in the same color remains an "unwritten rule" in classic style.
Matching shoes with socks and belts is very important in creating a gentleman's look (Photo: News).
Though rarely mentioned, the height of a shoe heel directly affects body proportions and the wearer's posture. A pair of shoes with a heel height of about 2-3 cm is considered ideal: "Enough to improve posture without losing a natural look."
According to Vogue magazine, designs with overly thick soles tend to make the overall look heavy, while soles that are too thin lack support. Balance is key, and this is always emphasized in men's fashion.
Besides aesthetics, the material and style determine the lifespan of a pair of shoes. Genuine leather remains the top choice due to its durability and ability to "age beautifully" over time.
From the story of the open-heeled shoes worn by American officials, a seemingly simple principle is reiterated: "In men's fashion, the difference lies in the details."
A well-fitting pair of dress shoes, in the right color and proportion, not only completes an outfit but also demonstrates an understanding and respect for fashion standards. In many cases, it is these small details that create the biggest impression.